FOOD TRUCK: PACIFIC ROOTS COFFEE + MINI DONUTS
Food Truck, Nehalem
By David & Susan Greenberg
Voodoo Donuts in Portland has one donut in its excellent (and garish) lineup racy enough to get you ejected from a church potluck. In what was once the Pompeii red-light district, we’ve actually seen a lookalike carved into a wall like a one-way arrow. By contrast, the donuts begat by Pacific Roots Coffee + Mini Donuts are dressed demurely, as though to suppress lust, like Amish women. But lust can’t be suppressed, can it. They’re excellent too.
Whenever we drive through Nehalem, if possible, we stop at Pacific Roots for these G-rated, hot-from-the-oil, dopamine-rush, cute-as-a-button, toroidal gems with their perfect crumb and flavorful coatings. Cinnamon sugar is our favorite. We like to dip them in a to-go cup of their fine joe. It turns out that, as with people, substance is far more important than shape.
They’re next to the river. If you can spare a moment, gnaw a donut and absorb the vibe.
David & Susan Greenberg love to hear from readers. You may contact us at our restaurant review website, www.ardentgourmet.com