Gumba
By David & Susan Greenberg, The Ardent Gourmet
davidandsusangreenberg@gmail.com
You’re mistaken if you think that Gumba refers to a dating app for gummy bears, though Lord knows they need romance too.
Gumba is a serious, innovative, bubbling-with-joy Italian restaurant in Northeast PDX molted from a food-cart four years ago. When we entered at merely 5:30 PM it seemed almost full (a reminder to call ahead for reservations). Arpeggios of laughter, smiles, convivial conversation, and amorous glances, along with great retro music, made the room pulse.
The menu is small which more restaurants should emulate. Too large a menu often means a restaurant's talent pool is spread too thin. We started with a loaf of bread that, instead of baked, was deep-fried. There was no sheen of oil, but the bread, sprinkled with cheese (probably parmesan) and deep-fried herbs, had that delightful crunch and chew that all well-fried doughs possess. We ordered it with housemade burrata and chicken liver mousse.
The burrata, made from whole-milk no doubt, was condensed lactic goodness. The chicken liver mousse, possibly sweetened with port, came with golden raisins and mustard seed lightly pickled, and micro greens. Both were nonpareil.
An artichoke – cooked, flattened, bottom coated with breadcrumbs, sauteed crisp, in a green sauce with housemade ricotta – was wow pow!
With this we drank a lovely sparkler, Vivera “Steve” Bianco Frizzante, with the liveliest character, apropos for this restaurant.
Undaunted by excess we each ordered housemade pasta. We had many-layered lasagna, each layer separated by green garlic cream, sun dried tomato, hazelnut pesto, melted leeks, lemon zest (delightfully discernible in the finished product) and leek ash (whatever that is). It came draped in duck confit.
We ordered pappardelle with braised beef short rib, toasted chilies, garlic, tomato, olives, pecorino cheese, and bread crumbs. It was the wonderful crunch of the toasted breadcrumbs that lifted this dish higher than any similar rendition.
We drank a Swick Gamay Noir (one of the few reds we’ve ever had purposefully chilled). We loved it and intend to ferret out a case or two!
Then, perhaps one bridge too far (which meant leftovers for our feral son), we ordered Pork Saltimbocca (“jump in your mouth”), an innovative version with speck, meyer lemon butter, chanterelle salsa tonnata, stewed prunes, and celeriac, flavored with fresh sage, its signature herb. Many saltimboccas are first covered in prosciutto or somesuch, and then with molten Fontina cheese, and a squeeze of lemon. We’ve never conceived of prunes or chanterelle salsa or fried shreds of celeriac. We’ve always made our saltimbocca with chicken but pork seemed more flavorful. Veal is classic (but dear).
Possibly these dishes were needlessly complex and would have tasted just as delicious minus an ingredient or two. (Was leek ash really necessary? Prunes?) On the other hand, possibly not.
Then, two very full foodies going where angels fear to tread, we ordered dessert. We had a revelatory tiramisu (best we’ve ever had…. don’t know how they did it… maybe it was the intensity of the espresso they used) and a cannoli filled with sweetened ricotta incorporating chunks of butterfinger candy (also best of kind).
Gumba’s food is a smile that lights up a room. Call up your favorite gummy bear, hold paws, head in. Bear feet allowed.
Gumba, 1733 NE Alberta St, Portland, OR 97211, (503) 975-5951